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- Egyptian
- Mesopotamian
- Greek
- Roman
- Medieval 1
- Medieval 2
- Pre-Columbian
Egypt
Egypt was one of the most stable societies in the ancient world , and this stability was reflected in their jewelry. There was little stylistic change from early Dynastic times (3200BC) to the Roman Period (30BC). The one exception to this was the very brief Amarna Period (1379-1362BC), which produced colorful faience jewelry influenced by a reverence for nature and a "live for today" philosphy. Ancient Egypt was rich in gold and precious minerals, and their craftsmen produced beautiful, lapis, carnelian, turquoise and gold jewelry, which was rich in religious symbolism. A wide variety of materials, including shell, steatite and faience, was used in the production of jewelry, and virtually everyone, even the poorest people, wore beads. Ancient Egyptians believed that beads had protective powers, and large quantities of gold, semi-precious stone, glass and faience beads were buried with both the wealthy and the poor.
Egyptian Middle Kingdom amuletic pendants of gold inlaid with carnelian, lapis lazuli and turquoisecirca 2100-1800BC.
Photo courtesy Gold of the Pharoahs, by Hans Muller.
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Predynastic and Early Dynastic (3200-2700BC) Carnelian and Shell Bead Necklaces
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Middle Kindom Amuletic Necklaces made of Faience, circa 2000-1800BC.
Photo courtesy Hatshepsut: From Queen to Pharoah, by Catherine Roehrig
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New Kingdom "Amarna Period" Faience Broadcollars, circa 1360BC
These collars are exquisite examples of the colorful trend in the art of the period, which displayed a reverence for nature and a philosophy of “living in the moment” rather than focusing on death and eternity, as had characterized much of Egyptian history. Colors were not limited to the gemstone-like turquoise, lapis lazuli, and carnelian shades of the earlier faience. Deep red, apple green and white were now used to great effect.
Photo courtesy Gold of the Pharoahs, by Hans Muller.
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Mesopotamia
About 3500BC, a civilization centered around intensive agriculture developed along the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in Mesopotamia. This was a hierarchical society, in which wealth was concentrated in the upper classes. It was also a region subject to turmoil and political instability. This instability is reflected in the jewelry, which displays both innovative techniques and outside influences. Beads functioned both as amulets and status symbols for the wealthy. The Sumerian city-state of Ur became the center of beadmaking, manufacturing sophisticated filigree and granulated gold beads, as well carved beads of carnelian and lapis lazuli. The earliest glass beads probably came from this region. In fact, most of the jewelry techniques that are practiced today had their origin in Mesopotamia.
Agate Eye bead, carnelian and gold beads, from Sumerian Ur, circa 2200-2000BC.
Photo courtesy 7000 Years of Jewelry, Hugh Tait, editor
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Carnelian, Lapis lazuli, agate, silver and gold beads from the bead cloak of Queen Puabi. Found at the royal tombs at Ur, Sumer circa 2500BC.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Lapis, carnelian and gold pendants, some with spiral motifs, which were a common symbol in the ancient world. Sumerian Ur, circa 2500BC
Photo courtesy 7000 Years of Jewelry, Hugh Tait, editor
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Beads from the royal tombs at Ur, Sumer.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Lapis, agate and gold bead necklaces from Sumerian Ur, circa 2500BC.
Photo courtesy 7000 Years of Jewelry, Hugh Tait, editor
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Lapis, turquoise, agate, carnelian and gold beads from Afghanistan, circa 2000BC. Similar to beads found in Mesopotamia during this time period.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Ancient Greece
The Minoans of Crete (3000-1375BC) were skilled goldworkers, influenced by both Egypt and Mesopotamian craftsmen. The Mycenaens(1400-1150BC) , forerunners of the Hellenic Greeks, manufactured and wore great quantities of beads and were also leading traders in the Mediterranean. With the fall of Mycenae, Greek craftsmanship declined until about 850BC, when beautiful jewelry again began to be produced. Classical Greek goldsmiths (500-400BC) perfected the use of lost-wax casting to design elaborate gold earrings that were like tiny works of art, often depicting mythical themes, much like the larger Classical Greek statues they imitated. During the Hellenistic Period (300-200BC), Eastern influence brought polychrome styles, including colorful glass beads and enameling.
Minoan gold bee pendant, from Chryssolakkos, Crete, circa 1700-1550BC.
Photo courtesy Art History, Volume One, Revised 2nd Ed., by Marilyn Stockstad
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Classical Greek gold and carnelian intaglio rings, circa 450BC.
Photo courtesy Greek Gold: Jewelry of the Classical World, by Dyfri Williams.
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Classical Greek gold hoop earrings, circa 450BC.
Photo courtesy Greek Gold: Jewelry of the Classical World, by Dyfri Williams.
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Gold filigree pendant earrings, Hellenistic Greece, circa 300-200BC.
Photo courtesy Greek Gold: Jewelry of the Classical World, by Dyfri Williams.
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Gold, enamel and colored glass bead necklace. Hellenistic Greece, circa 300-200BC.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Ancient Rome
The Romans were great admirers of and imitators of Greek Art. But unlike the idealistic Greeks, Romans were pragmatists. Mass production of glass beads made jewelry afforable for everyone in Roman society. And with the rise and expansion of the Roman Empire about 100 BC, Roman glass factories in Egypt, Anatolia, and Syria produced great quantities of glass beads based on Egyptian, Phoenician, Etruscan, and Hellenic designs. There were more glass beads made in the 1st century AD in the Roman Empire than in the previous 1,500 years.
Roman glass necklaces, circa 100BC-200AD.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Roman jewelry, circa 200AD.
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Roman cameo pin and Roman coin pendant
Photo courtesy ancienttouch.com
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Roman gold earrings, circa 100-200AD
Photo courtesy ancienttouch.com
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Early Medieval Europe: Byzantine
The Byzantine era began in 330 AD, with the decline of the Roman Empire, and continued for over 1,000 years. Byzantine jewelry reflected both Eastern and Western influences, and in the court of the Holy Roman Empire, in Constantinople, beads of precious gems were combined with gold and pearls to make elegant jewelry based on classic Roman, Hellenic, and Persian styles. Byzantine jewelry was worn primarily by the elite, with some gemstones reserved only for royalty. The use of enamel became popular in Byzantine jewelry when the use of images was banned by the church.
Byzantine gold and glass bead earrings, circa 700AD
Photo courtesy www.ancienttouch.com
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Byzantine gold and gemstone earrings, circa 600-700AD
Photo courtesy www.vroma.org
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Byzantine gemstone necklace, circa 400-500AD.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Byzantine Gold filigree bead necklace, circa 700-800AD.
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Seal of Saint Servatius, circa 650AD
On the reverse is the Gnostic Gorgon (Medusa) surrounded by the first few words of a Byzantine spell. The full spell is translated: "Death, black, blackening, as a serpent dost thou writhe, as a lion dost thou roar; but as a lamb shalt thou lie down!"
Image courtesy www.sacred-texts.com
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Early Medieval Europe: Barbarian Tribes
From 300-800AD, with the fall of the Roman Empire, semi-nomadic tribes gained power in Europe - the Huns, Visigoths, Ostrogoths, Vandels, Franks, Lombards, Angles and Saxons dominated various regions throughout an increasingly divided Europe. This "Migration Period" brought with it a colorful, practical, polychromatic beaded style jewelry. Each tribe developed their own identifying styles, but they also shared much in common due to their similar tribal lifestyles. During the late Migration Period (800-1000AD) the Vikings gained dominance, trading and raiding throughout Europe. The Vikings imported and manufactured exquisite beads of amber, jet as well as monochrome and mosaic glass beads.
Mosaic cane glass necklace, circa 600-800AD
Photo courtesy www.ancienttouch.com
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Mosaic glass necklace, circa 600-800AD
Photo courtesy www.ancienttouch.com
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Mosaic cane glass necklace, circa 600-800AD
Photo courtesy www.ancienttouch.com
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Medieval glass and bronze necklace, circa 600-800AD
Photo courtesy www.ancienttouch.com
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Viking glass and silver necklaces circa 800AD
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Anglo-Saxon garnet and lapis inlaid bead, circa 500-600AD
Photo courtesy The History of Beads, by Lois Sherr Dubin.
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Pre-Columbian America
Anasazi
The anasazi inhabited the southwestern region on North America from about 500-1300AD. Their culutre was centered around intensive agriculture. To accommodate an expanding population, they built extensive cliff-dwellings - the largest structures north of Mexico prior to the industrial revolution. For jewelry, they preferred locally mined turquoise, and also imported shells from the Gulf of California. They producd elaborate mosaics from stone and shell combined with pitch and mesquite gum.
 
Anasazi turquoise mosaic earrings and carved stone figure (early Kachina doll), circa 1400AD.
Photos courtesy The First Americans, Henry Woodhead, editor.
Anasazi Turquoise necklace, circa 1400AD
Photos courtesy The First Americans, Henry Woodhead, editor.
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Chumash
The Chumash lived along the California coast for thousands of years, from Malibu Canyon to San Luis Obispo, as well as the islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel. They depended on sea life for food and also used shells for both utilitarian and decorative objects, including jewelry. Abalone, clam and keyhole limpet were the most commonly utilized shells. Wood, bone and soapstone were also commonly used for jewelry. The Chumash are best known for their highly stylized, often abstract rock paintings, which are among the most imaginative in the world. They depict highly stylized suns, stars, eclipses and other astronomical phenomena, as well as stylized plants and animals,
and probably represented spirit beings.
Chumash rock paintings, Canalino, Santa Barbara County, California, circa 1000-1500AD.
Photo courtesy The Rock Paintings of the Chumash, by Campbell Grant
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Drawings of incised steatite pendants, Santa Catalina Island, California, circa 500BC-1100AD
Photos courtesy The Chumash Cosmos, by Georgia Lee
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Reproduction of Chumash rock paintings, Ventureno, Ventura county, California, circa 1000-1500AD
Photo courtesy The Rock Paintings of the Chumash, by Campbell Grant
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Maya
The Mayan civilization thrived in Central America from 600-1000AD. They produced elaborately carved jade jewelry, and also used flowers, feathers, textiles, animal skins and shells in their jewelry. Unlike the Incas, Aztecs, and Mixtecs, who produced hammered, cast and repousse gold jewelry, the Maya produced very little metal jewelry. Jade was one of the most highly valued materials used by the Maya, and they often buried it with the dead.
Maya jade necklace, ear-flares, an earplug and tubular beads. Pomina, Belize, circa 600-800AD
Photo courtesy 7000 Years of Jewelry, Hugh Tait, editor
Pre-Columbian stone bird pendant on shell bead strand
Photo courtesy http://www.oldbeads.com/americas.html |
Gold Mixtec pectoral, circa 1400AD
Photo courtesy The Art of Mesoamerica, by Mary Ellen Miller
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